|NRG Super Project|
The trip started well, I managed to repeat a bunch of lines that have gone up recently. (bouldering, this trip was primarily a bouldering trip). After a day of cleaning up outstanding problems I started to look for projects. It was supposed to snow the following day so the idea was to get a game plan together for the rest of the trip. We saw some really good lines but the one that stood out to me was the F5 project. F5 being the name of a really great boulder problem that Micah put up last year. F5 for any meteorological aficionados that are reading is also the rating they use to describe a tornados ferocity based on wind speed and cone size. Pretty much the boulder looks like a tornado is what I am saying. Anyway, up the hill from that boulder is another boulder and another boulder and another boulder..... but the one I was interested in is suspended in the air. Its super steep and has/had an amazing project out some crimps to a good right hand finger bucket then enter crux town to undercling pinch, wind mill to bad bad sloper move feet jump to finish jug and you're doneski. Two session on this beast. The first was a lack of preparation. I was not informed that the boulder had a super nar landing and at the same time I forgot all those years of boy scout training that would have told me to be prepared with an additional pad. We hiked for 25min with two and a half pads to a boulder problem that required at least 7 pads. Oh well. I tried the moves and managed a two piece with no intentions of trying a red point. Too dangerous.. So we left and I would return on the next nice day to send.
Our next stop was Fayettstation, a well known bouldering area right on the river. I was there to see a super project that may or may not go. Really steep boulder with small holds to a blank section. It looked amazing. I tried it a little but it too requires some pads. After a few attempts at the project I scooted over to the classic Octagon Control and banged that out.
I am tired of writing so I will say that the rest of our trip went like this. Great climbing, first v12 in the gorge and a ton of fun with our good friends at the New. I got some footage from our trip that I will put up soon.