Monday, March 4, 2013

The Projects

It has been rumored for many many years that Central PA has some very hard projects.  The list goes on and on, each area has its lines.  Some of the hard problems have even topped a few lists for "hardest in the country"...  Recently, I have visited some of said projects, in fact they are hard and doable.  The Keyhole project at mt. Gretna is first on my list of stuff and things.  I have done every move many times, two pieced it and it took my hamstring, we have some business, keyhole and I.  Next session for sure on that one, super cool line.  After Keyhole Mt. Gretna has another project called the Cut Tree. Cut tree is hard, hard, hard..  All the moves have been done tho.  It will probably be in the 13 realm when it goes and will be another hard diabase "condition dependent" climb.  Last and perhaps the most well known, unknown, line is the fabled v14 project on PA sandstone.  Emerson had contacted some people about it way back, early 2000's I believe..  Rumors surround local areas like fly's on crap and its all across the country.  Picking through whats possible and whats not can be a matter of a climbers vision or simply a question of if there are holds or not?? It can be tough to see beyond yourself, to see what the future could bring. Thats where the Mordor project story starts.  This thing is killer, literally..  It ended one climbing career and created some controversy in the PA scene back in the day.  Whats really cool is it could be one of the hardest climbs in the country just sitting in PA at an area with bad access issues.  "Hardest in the country"...??? Bold statement.  For sure this line will clock in at high double digits, not falling short of the v14 mark.  Its unclear as to exactly how hard.
I visited the Mordor project a few weeks ago and managed to do all but one move.  I even managed to link a few moves together.  The crux is 4 moves long starting with the first move..  You move off a bad crimp to a bad pinch..  pause on a non hold crimper and do a move to a terrible undercling.  move your feet, pull the undercling to your chest and fire for a jug pinch on the lip.  Beautiful, just beautiful...
I was told that someone had maybe done the climb years and years ago, which means it could potentially be the first of its grade.  Here is the controversy part, when the climber was asked to repeat, he was unable to do half the moves making a repeat impossible.  After trying it myself the other week, I could see that situation being a possibility.  Its a very unique crux that requires an infinite amount of undercling and wrist strength.  I am not sure either way, If you are nerd you'll get this, "the truth is out there."..  personally I don't care, its just a badass line.  The whole story is really interesting and maybe I will write it up if I send.. It might make a cool article, that is if magazines still exist when that happens.  Anyways, Its kept my attention and here is some bad footage.

Pa Projects from Tim Rose on Vimeo.

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