ode to training

I came across this video on the inter webs, it shows a bit of Alex Megos's training...  Who is Alex Megos??  If you have been living in a cave, under a rock or in Utah for the past year, Alex Megos is a young gun crushing machine that has been killing it.  Super inspiring to see where the sport is trending. All these kids making things look easy.  Check it out!  Warning: You may get so psyched you'll punch the next person you see in the face.


Schweiß ist Schwäche die den Körper verläßt from cafekraft on Vimeo.

Footage from the Gorge

I just got back from a 2 week trip to the New.  It started with a little bouldering and filming for the "Rocks for Research" fundraiser supporting Diabetes research.  We had a fun two days of climbing and Matt managed to do some of the classics around short & fern creeks.  I had the GoPro rolling fo a bit of it.

Bosley n' da Gorge from Tim Rose on Vimeo.

NRG - Beauty Mtn.

Mikey was at Beauty Mtn. and got this footage of the chunky monkey project.

Weapon of Choice

Yesterday was pretty much perfect in Fayetteville WV.  The sun was out and a cool breeze kept the temperatures from getting hot.  A crew was headed to Micah Klinger's masterpiece F5 to film for a charity event.  It took some effort to get everyone up the mountain and set up to film, in the end it all came together pretty well.  Matt and Dave both managed sends of F5 and afterwards we hiked around a bit looking for some new boulders.  We came across a short line that turned out to be really fun.  Its pretty much a dyno to a jug off of a bad crimp.  I didn't realize that my lens was scratched so the send footage is really not that great but who gives a crap, thought it was funny...  If you can make out my face I was turned around spotting my landing..  completely anticipating a fall off the jump move but it never came.  Not sure exactly how hard it was but felt like it was in the v10 range.

Weapon of Choice from Tim Rose on Vimeo.

Nicodemus

FA - Nicodemus 8a+

Finished my project at Ivy Mill this morning.  Super psyched! 

In Plain Sight

Packed up the ride Tuesday to check out a boulder in MD that could potentially have a hard project on it.  The boulder is 100 yards off the road near a small neighborhood in the suburbs of B'more.  All the moves are good and require a ton of tension. It's certainly not a stand out among the best boulders in the world but it sure is close to home and fun as hell! Steep 60 degree climbing on bad crimps takes you to a jug and an easy top out.  The boulder problem is not long, maybe 4 or 5 really hard moves.  Digger for sure ha ha ha..  3 of the moves are done off one foot and a bad toe scum.  The boulder is off kilter, which adds to the crux as you have no feet in the right place.  Came super close to the send on Tuesday, dry fired off a crimp and got sliced open.  Did I mention that it was on really bad holds? Pointless attempts after, the holds are too small and the climbing is too steep for tape on the tips.  I continued to bleed for awhile before I packed it up subscribing to the law of diminishing returns.  Decided to save it for another day....

My buddy Fernando went out yesterday and added a right start to the boulder and called it Right Hand of the Leper.  Didn't try it when I was there the other day, psyched to do that rig and finish up the left project.  Travis Gault said it best, PA (and MD for this post) Keeps on giving.
Speaking of PA, I was intending on climbing in western PA at Cole's Cove yesterday.  For those who are not familiar its a gritstone/sandstone area near Dunbar PA (south east).. Its a solid 4hr trip for me.. due to my skin situation after the massacre on tuesday I opted out of the long journey and will hopefully make it out this Thursday.  If all goes well, NRG from there.

Good and Local

I hooked up with J Smitty at Rocks for an afternoon session.  Smitty is back in the PA/MD area for a few weeks until he moves his residence to the NRG and decided to capitalize on conditions.   The weather was perfect today, no humidity, high of 50, don't get any better.  Early spring is amazing in the east when its not raining.
Smitty is close on this rig.  One of the best of its grade Moby climbs the left arete of a steep boulder near the King and Queen Seat at Rocks State Park.

A Look Back, Moving Forward

Go Bot v11/8a RMNP

I was looking around at some older photos, reassessing what I have done over the past year and half. I found some photos that reminded me how much fun I had and how much work I put in.  Go Bot in Lower Chaos is terrifying.  It climbs out a steep wall with a terrible landing.  In the early part of the season when the snow is 6+ feet deep in Chaos canyon its not as intimidating.  Snow fills up the terrible landing and you can rest easy knowing that the fall is still a fall but isnt as bad as the middle of the summer..  which is exactly when I decided to climb that mother.

European Human v12/8a+ 

European Human...  I tried this one with Zach Lerner in the rain and we didn't finish it.  It was an end of the session climb and it felt hard with small sharp holds.  So we made a bet...  Next session, whoever sent first the other person had to jump into the lake.. which is possibly the second coldest water that I have been in.  The deal was made.  Zach did it first try.  My turn, I pulled on did a move grabbed an edge, dry fired and split a tip.  I was going for a swim.  Awesome day, super cold, never did make it back to that problem after my swim.

Gorilla Warfare v10 FA

I went back to PA after my jaunt in CO.  The weather in the east was still warm.  It was late september / early october and we decided to head to western PA for some sandstone.  Brian, Miley, Cramer and I checked out a project all by itself at Johnstown. Super crimpy short overhang.  I managed to do it and called it Gorilla Warfare v10.  I don't know if its been tried again after that day, but its worthy if you find yourself in the area looking to pull on some small, sharp holds.

Mikey Fitz mantles while Med School Brian watches intently 

 This picture is from Lincoln Lake.  Wow, super cool place but the hike is brutal.  It was our first time to this area and I wasnt sure what to expect as far as approach time was concerned.  I had been told many stories.  The hike down wasn't so bad and then it started to snow.  We only got to climb for about three hours then had to leave due to weather and lack of light.  The hike out...  was pretty nar.  This is another area I never made it back to.